Home - Muztagh Ata Expedition Tour
22 days Muztagh Ata Expedition tour 2011 22 days Muztagh Ata Expedition tour 2011

Muztagh Ata, or Mustagata is the second highest (7546 meters) of the mountains which form the northern edge of the Tibetan Plateau. It is sometimes regarded as being part of the KunlunMountain range, although physically it is more closely connected to the Pamirs. It is also reputedly one of the easiest 7000 m peaks in the world to climb, due to its gentle western slope and the comparatively drier weather of Xinjiang.

Muztagh Ata lies just south of Kongur Tagh, the highest peak of the KunlunMountain range. Together they form a somewhat isolated group, separated from the main chain of the Kunlun, and also separate from the PamirMountains to the west. Both peaks are more closely connected to the main Pamir group than the main Kunlun group. Not far to the north and east of this group are the lowlands of the TarimBasin and the TaklamakanDesert. The Karakoram Highway passes very close to both peaks as well as KarakulLake, from which the mountain is conveniently viewed. The closest city is to the mountain is Tashkorgan, the westernmost town in China and very close to the border with Pakistan.

The easiest and extremely popular climbing route is from the west along the gentle snow slopes. This route has no technical difficulties but is hard enough because of the very high altitude. For the successful ascent of Muztagh-Ata, mountaineers should be in very good physical conditions, well acclimatized and have a basic climbing experience.

We will operate Mustagata expedition from June to early September and you may arrive at China from any border pass which is from Turgart pass or Kunjirap pass.

Muztagh Ata Expedition 2011 detailed itinerary

Taklamakan desert  Xinjiang China

Day 01 Arrive China
Met by our Chinese guide and bus at Tourgart pass (Kyrgyzstan-China border), after border formalities, drive to Kashgar for overnight. Stay in Seman or Qinibagh hotel.

Day 02 Kashgar to Subash

Today we are heading into the alpine regions of the Chinese Pamir where 7000 m ice peaks crowd the skyline. We visit Karakul Lake at the foot of Majestic Mustagata and further drive 14 km to Subash village where Kyrgyz herdsman settled for their yaks and camels in summer time.

Day 03 Subash to Mustagata base camp
After breakfast, pack the luggages up on the camels, then trekking around 5 hours to the Base camp of Muztagh-Ata with this camel caravans. Overnight in tent.

Day 04-19 Acclimatization at base camp and attempt to summit

Day 20 Base Camp trek back to Subash and drive to Kashgar
In the morning trekking down to Subash, again our gear will be taken by camels. Lunch at Karakol, then keep driving to Kashgar. Overnight at Seman or Qinibagh hotel.

Day 21 Kashgar sightseeing
City tour at Kashgar, Our tour includes Apak hoja Mausoleum, well-known Kashgar Sunday Market and its livestock section, lunch at local Uyghur family, afternoon wandering around Eid Kah Mosque and the most unique old town with typical Uyghur styled homes. We visit the various shopping alleys full of noodle shops, bakeries, teashops, blacksmiths and carpenters. Farewell dinner tonight.

Day 22 Kashgar depart Breakfast at hotel, then drive to tourgart pass to Kyrgyzstan or any other destinations.


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Cost includes:

·Permit Fee
·Complete cost of Liaison Officer
·Breakfast lunch and dinner, soft drinks in the city and during the expedition (10 days at BC)
·All means of land transfers from/to Turgart pass, Subash and Kashgar·
Twin share hotel accommodation with breakfast in Kashgar
·Porters and Camels from Subash to Base camp & return
·ESG services to assist the expedition at base camp but not high altitude guide
·Professional cook with complete kitchen equipments including kitchen tent, mess tent, toilet tent, sleeping tent, tables, stools, a mess kit, gas stoves, engine for electricity at base camp
·visa invitation letter (LOI) if required
·Entrance, government taxes & insurance of local staff


Cost does not include:

·Visa
·All changes during the program (extra transfers, extra days in town or base camp)
·Equipments over base camp (high altitude tents, high altitude food)
·Porters over base camp
·Single supplement 71 euro/person
·Any other item on personal interest

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The Swedish explorer and geographer Sven Hedin made the first recorded attempt to climb Muztagh Ata, in 1894. Additional attempts were made in 1900, 1904 and 1947, the last by the team of Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman who came very close to the summit but were turned back due to cold and deep snow.

The first ascent of the peak was in 1956 by a large party of Chinese and Russian climbers, via the west ridge, which is now the standard route.

Since the first ascent, many ascents of Muztagh Ata have been made. In 1980, a party led by Ned Gillette made a ski ascent/descent of the standard route, the first ski ascent of a mountain over 7500 m. An ascent of the much harder south-east ridge was made in 2000, and a secondary route at the west side of the mountain was first climbed in the summer of 2005.

The dazzling-white dome ... crowned with a shimmering field of eternal snow," was how the Swedish explorer Sven Hedin described the Father of the Ice Mountains. The 20th century explorer and mountaineer Eric Shipton was unimpressed, describing Muztag Ata much more soberly as, "an isolated peak somewhat resembling a volcanic cone in appearance."



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